The End of the Trip and Reflections

The last full day in Stockholm was a free day for everyone to see and do anything they still wanted to do.  I, in spite of not having to, woke up at 6am and got some work done before heading out to do my souvenir buying.  I walked toward the Old Town part of the city and tried to find non-touristy, Swedish stuff for the people I want to get gifts for and was amazed at how hard it was to do.  Swedes make some very high end stuff; things I would love to be able to bring back for my friends and family, but most of it is either difficult or impossible to bring back, WAY too expensive, or difficult or impossible to identify with Sweden (H&M clothes for example). 

Eventually, after many miles of walking, I found gifts for everyone I was looking to buy for, including a whole lot of food!  As I walked around two things struck me.  First, the traffic on the main shopping thoroughfare increases significantly from Friday to Saturday (and accordingly so to do the people selling, preaching and generally entertaining on these street).  This traffic increase really made the city feel alive.  Second, I saw hundreds, if not thousands, of hockey jerseys.  Swedes don’t tend to wear jerseys around casually, but given that Saturday and Sunday represented the semi-finals and finals of the world hockey championships, the jerseys were out in force (and not only Sweden jerseys but also Finland and Switzerland).

After getting my standard lunch (2 apples and some cheese here is Sweden), I started off to find my beloved her requested chocolates.  Without my native guide (haha), I went to the wrong station, on the wrong subway line and ended up getting a lovely 2 mile long walking tour of the island where the Palace is before re-orienting myself.  If I hated walking this would have driven me crazy, but honestly it is my favorite part of going to other cities so I had a nice time.  I finally found the shop I was looking for, bought way too much chocolate (though I don’t expect any complaints), and headed back, had dinner, and went to bed early.

The next morning, I met the students early (6:20am local) to head off to the airport.  Everyone was on time, even if some of them were quite tired and we made our flights without any problems.  Flying back is hard because Stockholm was so much fun (and because we all dreaded a FULL day of travel), but I was glad to get home a mere 21 hours after leaving my hotel in Stockholm.

In reflecting on my experience in Stockholm I learned/observed the following things:

• Swedes are amazingly fluent in English.  In other countries I have visited, people speak English, but do so hesitantly and less well on average than Swedes.  No one we encountered in Sweden was incapable of communicating at a high level in EnglisWifi is NOT ubiquitious.  While both Nic and I expected there to be generally available Wifi, the reality is that it was relatively rare to find accessible Wifi (except at 7-11 which had free Wifi at every one of their hundreds of locations)
•  Sweden is a small market.  We all knew going in that the population is Sweden is about 9 million, but its relative size and density greatly affects the business models that make sense.  IF insurance is broadly diversified across the Nordic countries (Norway, Sweden, Finland and Iceland) in order to reduce risk in increase its insurable base while Hitta has largely consolidated “local” solutions to e-solutions that have yet to be consolidated in the US.
• Systembolaget must be among the most unique businesses I have ever learned anything about.  Their mission goes beyond being responsible in selling the product, they actively engage in tactics to encourage its consumption.  They certainly strive to do well in sales if you decide to buy, but they engage in a variety of activities to encourage you not to decide to buy.  It was truly fascinating!
• Stockholm is a very accessible city.  Between the subway, busses, trams and a few blocks of walking, you can easily get around without a car.  That said, because they have worked to retain the history of the city, many of the sidewalks are made from pavers, bricks or cobblestones and so if you aren’t used to it (or if you wear shoes with thin soles) it can be quite punishing on the feet.
• Services are very expensive.  If good are expensive (and most are), it is because the price tag includes a 27% VAT, but what is amazing is how expensive services are.  For example, I looked into getting a pedicure on Saturday afternoon (because of the point above) and the price was 660kr (about $110).  I am sure there are reasons for this beyond what I observed, but I would speculate that one of the major reasons for this is that every job in Sweden strives to pay a “living wage”.  While it was nice to offer a tip as a token for good service, it also means that everything that is labor intensive is expensive.

This was a great trip and I hope to return to Stockholm sooner rather than later.

The Swedish Experience...What a Treat

Yesterday was an amazing day in Sweden.  We started with a 3 hour long meeting/wine tasting/lunch with two senior people in Systembolaget, the Swedish liquor monopoly.  They explained the history behind the creation of the retail monopoly any why Sweden has felt it necessary to maintain it.  The business model is so interesting because Systembolaget is a company which employs 6000 plus people that actively tries to excel in customer service while readily working to discourage buying.  The presenters were willing to answer our every question and talked a lot about the importance of their systematic methods for purchasing and displaying alcohol so as to avoid actual or perceived impropriety.  Following the presentation, we were treated to an opportunity to try to engage in a liquor selection panel for wine using their methods.

They typically line up 12 glasses of wine (we only had to struggle through 4) and listed to a very systematic set of criteria before trying to find the “best” fit with the description.  As many in the group identified, the job is so difficult because you have to separate out personal preferences from the specified criteria.  Finally, we joined them for a wonderful lunch where we had the opportunity to just talk with our presenters.  The only thing to mar the visit at all was an abrupt end when a fire alarm went off and the building had to be rapidly evacuated.

We left to students to engage in some early sourvineur shopping at that point while Nic, Devon and I wondered around doing some purchasing of our own.  I have now got gifts for 2 of 12 people…I am getting there.

After a relaxing afternoon, the faculty headed out to meet the students at the place where they would be surprised by the Swedish dinner experience.  We were standing on the dock when two boats pulled up and the evening began.  We all loaded up and headed off for a trip via sea for Nic’s sister, Lisa’s, house.  The trip was amazing with our hosts pulling out all of the stops and some great jumping over wakes of huge ships with huge smiles all around.  When we arrived, most changed into bathing suits and headed down to the wood fired sauna. 

As someone schooled in the art of sauna by Nic in the past, I knew to get into the sauna and get nice and warm from the beginning (the sauna was between 60 C and 70 C.  The students, on the other hand, started off by jumping straight into the ocean (which was only 7 degrees C) before getting into the sauna.  CRAZY!!!  Those that came down to the sauna spent half an hour or so down there in and out of the room before heading up for a wonderful meal.  Over the next couple of hours the herring, potatoes, salmon and salad were quickly consumed.  In spite of all of the delicious food, most everyone still had room for ice cream, homemade whipped cream, meringues, and cloudberry jam.  What a feast!

Today is a free day for all and the last real chance for everyone to see anything in the city they have missed to this point.  I am going to try to make it to the museum of modern art and architecture and a new photography museum that has just opened up.

Working Hard...

In the last two days, we have had two amazing company visits.  The first was to H&M where we met with their investor relations department.  He told us all about how H&M approaches the market and made it clear just how incredible the growth of the company has been over the last 15 years.  I think all of the students had an amazing time at H&M and it quickly became clear at the meeting that getting into H&M to hear from them about their business is not frequently done, so we felt quite special.  It is great to have Nic and his personal contacts on the trip to facilitate these meetings!  Today, we met with the director of Hitta.se which is a directory service.  They are part of a larger conglomerate which is trying to generate a stable of internet properties that work together to generate revenues by driing traffic to complementary assets.  Joakim, our presenter, did a great job and laid out a vision for company that was quite compelling.  It was so compelling, at least one of the students on the trip indicated interest in getting in contact after the trip to look at potential employment opportunities!

Other than the visits to the companies, the last two days have involved two of the must-see tourist location in Stockholm: Skansen (a combination zoo and historical reenactment) and the Vasa museum.  Skansen is a zoo just outside Stockholm proper where Sweden’s native animals are placed in the same park as historical building types.  There were not a lot of the re-enactors on site yesterday, so we didn’t get to talk with them about life in Sweden in the past, but the buildings were very cool.  Today, we visited the Vasa museum and learned all about the ineptness that led to the design of a ship which sunk less than 1 mile out of port.  It is amazing how the desire by the king in another country led to the building of a ship which could not withstand even a minor squall.  The Vasa museum was also amazing for how well they have preserved the ship.  The preservation techniques that were pioneered to preserve a ship brought back to the service whole were very cool and they continue to innovate in these techniques into today.

In addition to the company and cultural events, we have had some down time to really get out into the city.  One of the best decisions we made on this trip was buying everyone an unlimited public transportation pass that has allowed us to basically freely move around the city using trams, the subway and busses.  This has allowed us to go all over and do some of the all important preliminary shopping to begin planning for souvenir buying.  Unsurprisingly, my list of people I would like to buy for is quite long, but it is very important to think through purchases given the expense of everything in Stockholm.  For example, even a simple café Americano (a shot of espresso with a little hot water added to it) costs almost $5 and every meal seem to start at $18.

Yesterday, Nic, Devon and I spent time working on coordinating the Swedish dinner experience that is on tap for tomorrow.  We cannot wait to see what the students think of the experience…it is going to be a blast.

Beside the Swedish dinner experience, tomorrow hold a visit to Systembolaget the Swedish state run liquor monopoly!  More to come tomorrow.  Now it is time for dinner…Thai food!

A Walkabout in the Rain and Visiting IF Insurance

Everyone looked better this morning with some much needed sleep under their belt, but after talking with the students, a number of them woke up around 4am.  We met up with the students and all walked down to the water so that a hop-on hop-off tour could be had by the students. Unfortunately, it was raining, sometimes quite heavily, so it was really a hop-on tour.  After a trip back to change, we met up again for some lunch. 

We had originally arranged to meet up at one of 4 exits from a subway station to go get the students a local favorite Tunnbrödsrullar (it is not as easy to pronounce as it looks) for lunch.  As is inevitably the case when communication is impaired (in this case because of the cost of engaging mobile technology outside the US), we ended up at different exits and spent 15 minutes wandering around between the exits before reconnecting.  It is amazing that these things can happen in a day and age where almost all of us have cell phones, but it does…because we didn’t want to use them.  We did meet up and got the students their  Tunnbrödsrullar (which consists of a hot dog, mashed potatoes, shrimp salad, lettuce, tomato and onions in a tortilla) which by all accounts was good before heading to our first visit.

We met up with one of Nic’s old friends, Andreas, who gave us a brief overview of IF Insurance before providing some great information on the sales and servicing of property and casualty insurance in Sweden.  The talk was very informative and the students asked good questions setting a high bar for the upcoming visits.

Tomorrow, we visit H&M and head to either the Vasa Museum or Skansen.  Ciao.

Day of the Sleep Deprived Travelers

We arrived in Paris at 8:30am and found ourselves on the other side of security and customs with just enough time to grab a bite to eat before heading for the plane for the last leg of the trip into Stockholm.  Once we were finally here, we grabbed the Arlanda Express train to the central train station T-Centralen.  A quick ride on the subway and we were off to the hostel.  Unlike hotels in the US, the hostel has very limited hours when the office is open to check in and check out.  We arrived (with luggage in tow) 45 minutes before the office opened so the students set off to do some preliminary shopping for breakfast and generally relax while waiting to be able to check in.  Nic, Devon and I, meanwhile headed to our hotel (about a 7 minute walk away) where we also checked in and tried to recuperate from the long day of travel.  We met up again with the students an hour or so later and headed out for a walk down to the old town where we saw the parliament, the site of a massacre from a revolution and generally engaged in walking around.  Finally, with everyone tired and hungry, we headed out to pizza for dinner.  The pizza was quite good and everyone generally enjoyed themselves.  At that point the students headed out to do a little exploring before heading back to the hostel while Nic, Devon and I went to pay a brief visit to one of Nic’s brothers before heading back for a well deserved sleep (which happened right after writing this post before it got posted...my bad)

Sweden 2013 - And Off We Go

Up Up and Away

               

  The Maine Business School MBA trip to Sweden is officially underway!  Nic Erhardt and I met the students at Logan airport to begin our journey to Sweden.  Everyone was there and in good spirits and the group got a chance to bond over an overpriced airport meal prior to boarding the Air France 747-400 on our way to Paris.

               

  The students all seem to be eager to get into the country and have a chance to explore their new surroundings.  We have a nice, relaxing first afternoon planned.  After we get into Stockholm proper from the airport, we will get everyone settled and take in the Old Town including some amazing views of the royal residence before heading to a local pizza joint (which Nic swears makes the best pizza in the world!!!).  As of this writing (11pm EST on the day of departure), most of the crew is asleep as we suggested repeatedly in pre-trip meetings so it is my hope jetlag will be minimal for most of the group.

                

   I am a religious non-sleeper on planes (no matter how tired), and so I relish this time as a chance to get work done and switch mindsets for the upcoming adventure.  I expect a great trip balancing business visits with plenty of time to experience the culture of Sweden.  I will endeavor to update this blog each day of the trip and provide one lens through which to see the time we spend in Stockholm.  

Final Thoughts

I have been back in the US for around a month now.  I  initially intended to write a reflection to the trip immediately, but jet-lag and an impending trip for my wife and daughter pushed back my efforts until it fell off the short list of things to be done on any given day.  That said, I have been asked by too many people to count how the trip was, and so I have done a lot of reflecting.

One of the things that stood out to me most in my time in Japan was just how diligent the workers are.  We read a book called The Japanese Mind before leaving which introduced us to a number of concepts that describe the psyche of Japanese.  One of the ideas introduced was gambari which is perseverance or doing ones best.  Every person we met with in the country seemed to embody this ideal in all of our interactions.  This was true regardless of whether we were in a business meeting or we were at the corner store asking for help.

Another aspect of Japan that was remarkable was how safe and clean it was.  Tokyo is a city with 13+ million people and yet we would routinely see children of 7 or 8 riding the subway alone to or from school or an activity.  At no point in our time there did anyone in our group (to the best of my knowledge) feel at all unsafe.  This was true even the first morning we were there when many of the students arose at 3am and walked miles through a still empty city.  In addition, just as Paul said, we saw essentially no trash anywhere.  Indeed, when we were touring the imperial palace in Tokyo, we say large groups of people picking up sweeping and picking up leaves and grass by hand.  Clearly the Japanese take cleanliness very seriously.

There were many other aspects to this trip that were truly remarkable, and have made me want to go back again as soon as I can arrange it.  The food is excellent and truly different from most of what I have had in the US.  Shopping is an experience because of the effort which is put forward by most everyone working anywhere you might wish to spend your money.  There is also so much interesting history.  Kyoto was full of amazing shrines and temples where you could really get a sense of what it is to be Japanese just based on the architecture and decorating.

I cannot say enough about how much work Paul and Keiko Myer put into this trip and I was honored to be invited as another faculty member.  If you ever get a chance to see Japan, I would recommend it highly!!

Signing out for now...